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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #1 

Hi
I would like to
show the work on my project - electric nissan micra cvt. 

Components:

Electric motor - Juli 12Kw - 48v
Cotroller - Curtis 1221 - 550A - 48v
Battery and charger - still looking

First - engine out!!
IMG_0376.JPG 
and out
IMG_0408.JPG 
coming electric motor - yeee
3561012050.jpg  and controller
$(KGrHqR,!o4FI5ch1ydlBSSGni0iI!~~60_12.JPG 
now I must only conect electric motor with CVT automatic georbox - hmmmm easy hihi

3 month later


and
a little inspiration
IMG_0721.JPG 
ready - yeee IMG_0669.JPG 
first time I connect 12v battery and check georbox - work - yeeee
IMG_0739.JPG 
in this month I connect controller and pot box and contactor

thank you and I
counting on questions and help from the forum members







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volts

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi and welcome, great post.
How are you connecting the motor shaft into the gearbox, is it good fit or did you have to make some attachment. I think that would be difficult?

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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #3 
i make something like drive shaft - was wery easy - automatic georbox dont need flexi conect.
when i take off electric motor i send picture.
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volts

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Reply with quote  #4 
I would be very interested to see how you did that connection.
Does your motor have an internal spline, or a shaft sticking out?

Some of the motors have an internal spline, but there is no standard with the width and the number of teeth so it can be difficult.
Did you have to do welding to make that connection?

I don't know how to do welding which stops me with big projects!

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ampman

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Reply with quote  #5 
Amerjack, [eek]you are a brave man taking on that conversion. It reminds me of when I tried to convert a mini to electric... Problems Problems! [frown]
I suspect you may face the same problems I did, especially if you are intending to use that as Road Legal?

You will have difficulty getting an MOT, and correct registration. It is a paperwork nightmare. I will make a topic post with the link and when I have time I will add some information there on my experience.

Also what top-speed do you hope to get?
I would be surprised if you get even 20mph with that motor/controller set-up.

Don't want to sound negative, but it wont be easy!!
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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #6 
Hi
Volts - always you must same make drive shaft - now in this moment is only welding on test but coming next someone cutting on CNC for me. If you have AutoCad i can send you my project on CNC.

ampman - is no bad - my car still have MOT and road tax - i go to DVLA and this lady told me i need pass only new MOT or Vosa and change engine because electric car dont have road tax.
I have friend on MOT station (i am mechanic - engineer) and he told me - no problem car have only 0 emmisions o2 and finish.

This electric motor before was in seat arosa - easy 60-80km/h - micra and arosa this is small car i think easy 50-60km/h. In my country 2 people converted car on electric with this same electric motor and big car Opel Kadet drive easy 60km/h - WV Polo - 60-80km/h.
Speed this is no problem for me - if give me max 30-40mph will be good for me - only to work and home perfect.
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ampman

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amerjack

This electric motor before was in seat arosa - easy 60-80km/h.


Really! I am very surprised, was that running just at 48v or over-volted?
I haven't seen any Juli motors for a while, I think they were made in Czech. Is that 12kw peak or continuous? If you can tell me the model number from the plate I will look up the spec
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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #8 
no problem
I am registred on Poland electric car forum - in Poland this is standard converted car on DC - 48volt to max 80volts
i can send you photo and specifications this Kadet and Polo
3561012050_3.jpg 

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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #9 
WV Polo - At a speed of 60km / h current is about 130A on a straight road - is no bad.
I check now on forum Kadet have 90km/h max speed - only 4 battery 200Ah - and curtis
1204 275A 36v but work on 48volt.
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ampman

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Reply with quote  #10 

Doing the Maths I don't understand how Kadet can get 90km/hr from that,  except for downhill [rofl]
Please can you tell me name of forum so I can look?

Your motor is similar to a Forklift Pump motor I saw which was made by Bosch, but I think was rebranded.
Maybe yours was from Forklift pump too?

pump1.jpg 


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volts

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Reply with quote  #11 
Ampman always the pessimist!

Amerjack on the car did the petrol engine have a spindle that fit into the gearbox, or a shaft on the gearbox that fit into the engine?
I would like to see how you did the connection, and if it is best to have a motor which has an internal spline, or an external shaft?

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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #12 
hi
next step - battery.
4 x 12v - 225Ah AGM perfect.
now i need only charger.
IMG_0813.JPG IMG_0814.JPG 

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ampman

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Reply with quote  #13 
Nice! Have you managed to fit 4 of those in the front? Bet they are HEAVY!
How much did they cost you?

Let me give you a tip, use 4 normal car battery chargers, one on each battery.
Much better than 48v charger, solves all your balancing issues.

 get 4 cheap car battery chargers from Argos, some are quite small like the RAC smart charger, then run 4 off a 4 socket extension lead.
It is then like parallel charging, which gets all the batteries to the same full voltage. You need 4 because you can't parallel charge with one 12v charger when they are all wired in series (otherwise you have a short circuit.)

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7404881.htm
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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #14 
Hi
only 2 battery on front and next 2 in back.
I think 4 charger is better for me but how connect 4 charger 12v (minimum 10Amp) to 48v battery - i now i have 4 x 12volt battery but always disconect battery or build (battery disconect system) - i confused now.
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ampman

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Reply with quote  #15 
Very simple just connect each charger to one battery. You can keep them wired in series and have one charger to each.
Perfect balancing that way, and you can keep the charger clips connected to the battery while you drive!

Your last job will be to replace that controller. I will be astounded if it works well! Let us know how it goes!

And 6-8amp charger is enough. You have a lot of storage in 225ahr, so on most trips you wont even use half. So an overnight charge will refill them even with 4 cheap chargers!
The RAC ones are good because they are small.
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iampy

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Reply with quote  #16 
It looks great Amerjack
Have you taken it for a test run yet?
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louismoulton

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Reply with quote  #17 
Hi amerjack
I have just bought a juli motor to start a conversion on (don't laugh) a lada niva.  It is rated at 48 volts 300 amps.  type P13-06  68003970.  
I have no idea any more specs on the engine, which I would like if anyone knows.  It has a slotted shaft, as in the end of the shaft is rectangular with a threaded hole in the middle.  My current plan will be to couple it to the universal joint going onto the central diff, but I might put it on the transfer box.  I am expecting to get rid of the gearbox.  I will use two double pole contactors to operate reverse.  I am thinking of using at least a 500 amp controller, but reading the above might up the voltage to 72 Volts, any thoughts on this?  It would mean a lower current needed so less loss on wires and the current drawn from the batteries would be less so they should be more efficient. 
I would like to see a photo of the coupling for your motor, and how you made it.  Any other comments are welcome.

Thanks 

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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #18 
Hi
can you send me photo this electric motor - and better if you stay with gearbox but NIVA have 2 gearbox - 1 -standard 4gear and tzw. dyfer (front and rear axle - 4x4).
Next how many wight lada niva - this is small jeep and this electric motor Juli is only 12Kw or 11Kw - max 310Amp - and 2880 rpm max.
If you send me photo georbox and this electric motor i can create for you this connection this is wery easy.
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ampman

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Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by louismoulton
Hi amerjack
I have just bought a juli motor to start a conversion on (don't laugh) a lada niva.  It is rated at 48 volts 300 amps.  type P13-06  68003970.  
I have no idea any more specs on the engine, which I would like if anyone knows.  It has a slotted shaft, as in the end of the shaft is rectangular with a threaded hole in the middle.  My current plan will be to couple it to the universal joint going onto the central diff, but I might put it on the transfer box.  I am expecting to get rid of the gearbox.  I will use two double pole contactors to operate reverse.  I am thinking of using at least a 500 amp controller, but reading the above might up the voltage to 72 Volts, any thoughts on this? 


Hi Louis
Bear in mind that if you up the voltage you will up the amps, since V=IR. I understand your logic but in practice a higher voltage wont mean you can get away with a lower rated (current) controller. My own experiences of overvolting motors has not been good in the long run. +10v, maybe but not 48 to 72

For the money Kelly controllers are pretty good, but go for at least a  550, or even better 650amps rated model because their rated contiuous is only a third of their peak
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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #20 
hi
big finish - now only connect cable and big start - maybe tomorrow??



IMG_0875.JPG  IMG_0884.JPG  IMG_0894.JPG

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ampman

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Reply with quote  #21 
Those batts are huge!
That controller is never going to be up to the job! I wait to hear if you can make 20mph!

Still looks nicely made. Very tidy, well done.
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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #22 
hi
reva g-wizz have 4kw motor 48v and speed 25mph - i have 12kw motor amd automatic cvt gearbox will be good.

this is opel kadet converted on this same electric motor and battery - speed max 90km/h

for me speed 35/40mph max!! is perfect i dont need looking moore.
bez tytuÅ‚u.JPG




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ampman

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Reply with quote  #23 
Lets hope so.
I don't have good experiences with Curtis controllers myself, so I hope you have more luck!
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amerjack

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Reply with quote  #24 
still i looking dc-dc converter
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ampman

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Reply with quote  #25 
Why bother? Just charge your 12v battery everytime you charge the full pack, or put a small solar panel on it??

If you really want one there are many on eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Converter-48V-Step-down-to-12V-10A-120W-Power-Supply-Module-Waterproof-M8-/121341598428?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c4085dadc
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